Amsterdam

I’m back in the states and slowly overcoming jet lag with the help of trips to local breweries and Lord of the Rings marathons! I can’t wait to start living here once I’m out of the land of half-awake, but until then, I’ll keep recapping my trip and reliving the awesomeness.
am20We left Germany bright and early and hopped on a plane to Oslo, Norway.
am22No Final Destination issues on this plane either, thank goodness.
am21We had a two hour layover at the airport, so I grabbed a “build it yourself” bowl from the salad bar and a local beer before jumping right back on another plane to head down to Amsterdam. Kind of a crazy detour, but it saved a ton of monies that we were able to put to good use on more food and brews. Very important in my book.
am23After settling in at our below mediocre hotel in central Amsterdam, we walked next door to Dante for a few more local beers…
am24And the best burger of my life. I’m omitting the picture I took on my cell phone because it looks like zombie carnage and is unsuitable for all viewers, but man, was it amazing.
amThe next morning my travel buddy and I hopped onto a hop on hop off canal tour. Seriously, I’m obsessed with these! The first stop was the Anne Frank house.
am3We got there half an hour before they opened and beat the massive crowds that soon began forming a line around the building.
am1They don’t allow pictures of anything inside, but you really don’t need a camera to remember every room. The building winds around the back through mazes of steep, creaky staircases until you come to the bookshelf that hid the families in hiding. After stepping through there are a handful of rooms, completely empty after the Nazis had arrested those in hiding and stripped the house of all the furniture. We walked through the dark bedrooms, bedroom/kitchen, staircases, bathroom and the room Anne Frank lived in that still has the posters plastered on the wall that she’d taken from magazines and decorated with. The final stop is the room with the ladder leading up to the attic – the one place she could see the outside world during her two years in hiding. They don’t allow anyone to climb up, but there’s a mirror placed at an angle at the top so you can see out the small window and get a glimpse of that same view she had.
am2This is the entrance to the original house. The museum entrance next door winds through the side, keeping the original entry staircase preserved in time.
am4If you’re in Amsterdam, this should be on the top of your list to see.
am5We hopped onto the canal boat to continue the tour of the city.
am6Try to catch all of the tours and boats as early as you can. We enjoyed a nice quiet ride until around 1pm when the lines started getting a little crazy.
am7
am8
am9The Seven Bridges of Reguliersgracht.
Screen shot 2013-09-22 at 7.28.36 AMUnfortunately we didn’t get to see these lit up at night, but it’s still a beautiful sight.
am10Bridge crossing.
am11Koninklijk Theater.
am12Amstel Hotel.
am13We hopped off for the Heineken Experience for about an hour and a half. That recap will come in the next blog. Far too many pictures to post here!
am17Afterwards we needed some absorption foods. We found it at a small cafe right off the canal.
am16Old and creaky and full of locals, just the way I like it!
am18I got the Hawaiian Toasty – Ham, cheese and pineapple pressed between two slices of bread and toasted until crispy and warm. Similar to a panini without all the butter, so it’s healthy? Yeah, let’s go with that.
am19We headed back to the canal to wait for our ride home and enjoyed some people watching of a wedding – heart shaped wreath included.
am14The De Gooyer Windmill – one of the last remaining in Amsterdam. It’s now a private residence and sits above the Brouwerij ‘t IJ. We hopped off to check it out, but unfortunately it was closed. We found a restaurant right next door that happened to serve their brews!
am28This was one of my favorite food places around. Cozy and warm inside with a new age soundtrack softly playing, friendly bartender, candlelight dancing around inside as the rain streamed down the windows and good food.
am27…and a nice beer list.
am29I got the Brouwerij ‘t IJ India Pale Ale – wonderfully hoppy American style IPA coming in at 7%ABV.
am30And split the Brouwerij ‘t IJ Wit with travel buddy.
am26Travel buddy also enjoyed a beautiful soy latte, topped with cookies. When the rain turned from a deluge back into a downpour, we raced through to wait for our next hop-on back to the hotel.
Amsterdam ChurchUp next – the Heineken Experience!

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Nonsolovino, München

Our final night in München, we revisited a spot we’d found on our happy hour tour a few nights prior.
AM9Nonsolovino is a quaint little restaurant on a side street, full of happy locals who are regulars there, and run by Carmelo Bongiovanni, a friendly Italian who is on a first name basis with all of his customers and came to have a jovial discussion with us our first night in. We enjoyed the fine wines and conversation so much, we had to return for the food.
AM6The inside is cozy and softly lit, with an extensive wine menu and a simple food menu.
AM5I don’t know wines and will be the first to admit it. I asked our waiter’s recommendation from the list of reds.
AM8This was a winner. Rich and oaky, full of dry tannins and a hint of what I thought to be bourbon. I was a happy girl.
AM10I perused the menu and was prepared to order the gnocchi before they brought in the specials board. Farfalle mit Lads u.Rucola… or something like that. It means farfalle pasta with salmon and deliciousness… or something like that.
AM7 We relaxed, sipped wine and enjoyed the idle chatter of the patrons around us while we patiently awaited our meals. Germany is made for long, relaxed meals. All of Europe is made for long, relaxed meals. If you leave before two hours, you’re rushing. Sit back, relax, take another sip of wine and breathe. And please, phones and technology must be left at home.
AM11My dish – droolworthy. Al dente pasta with fresh arugula, juicy burst tomatoes and delicate pieces of salmon, enveloped in a warm coat of fragrantly herbed olive oil.
AM12Travel buddy #1 – Tender filet of beef with a red wine sauce studded with mushrooms on top of scalloped potatoes.
AM13Travel buddy #2 – Pasta with fresh veggies and rabbit. I’d never had rabbit before, but it seems to me like a slightly chewier combination of chicken and pork. All of the plates were scraped clean.

We lounged for another hour chatting with Carmelo and enjoying the ambiance of the place and topped it off with a glass of limoncello courtesy of our gracious host.
AM14If I’m ever lucky enough to return to München, I will be back here for my first meal in the country. A huge thanks to the entire crew at Nonsolovino for their kindness, delicious foods and brilliant wine selection!


Nonsolovino
Metzstraße 15, 81667 Munich, Germany

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Hop-On Hop-Off

With my ankle being a bit of a bummer thanks to a running injury, my travel buddy and I decided that our new favorite thing to do is hop-on hop-off bus tours. Picture heavy post, comin’ at ya!

München, Germany
AM2The most important sights first – Löwenbräu Brewery, which I just found out is owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev. Wah. Ah well, I still enjoy it (although my favorite beer we’ve had here so far has been Andechs by miles!).
AM3Boil kettles and mash tuns across the street.
AM4Nymphemburg Palace. We decided to stay on the bus here since we’d snagged the front seats at the top, plus my ankle was still acting up.
AM5And glad we did! It started raining immediately. We stayed inside the warm, cozy bus while the throngs of people who had just hopped-off started running towards the palace.
AM6Olympiapark in Munich.
AM7BMW Museum (closed on Mondays for anyone interested in going).
AM9At this point of the ride, some of the descriptions of the sights were lost in translation.
AM10We hopped off here to grab some lunch.
AM14The Glockenspiel Cafe is located on the 7th floor in the building directly across from the clock.
AM15First things first, lunchbeer! Hofbräu Original Helles.
AM17Balsamic lentils with some kind of amazing creme foam.
AM18Gnocchi with sundried tomato and pumpkin seed pesto, garlic and fresh parmesan for me. Painfully delicious.
AM16The gorgeous view of the Glockenspiel. We were lucky enough to grab seats at the window after one couple left.
AM19Just a port-a-potty swinging over the streets.
AM1We jumped back on and passed through the Viktualienmarkt – a HUGE farmers market with over 300 types of cheese, crates of fresh fruits and vegetables, wines, truffles and biergartens everywhere.
PalaceOne last look at the Nymphemburg Palace.
Munchen‘Twas an amazing day!

Salzburg, Austria
Yesterday, we had plans to check out Salzburg, Austria. We took the bullet train southeast and an hour and 45 minutes later, pulled into the main station.
AM26Mozart’s place of birth! Conveniently located above a chain grocery store.
AM27Fish sammiches with the skin on. Eek.
AM25St. Blaise Church at the end of the street. The street was packed, so we looked for a way to get some space and room to breathe.
AM20We took the Mönchsberg Lift to the top of one of the mountains that houses the Museum der Moderne and were blessed with this view.
AM23Breathtaking views of the Salzach River.
AM22As well as the busy city.
AM24After taking a ridiculous amount of pictures, we took the lift back down and head out to find the yellow hop-on hop-off bus of Salzburg.
AM28My throbbing ankle was please beyond belief once we were picked up. Here’s a view of the Museum der Moderne we’d just retreated from.
AM29The Horse Bath statue.
AM30Driving into the tunnel leading to the outskirts of the city.
AM31A view of the Hohensalzburg Fortress.
FortressHohensalzburg Fortress from the Museum der Moderne.
SalzburgAnd a farewell to the beautiful city.

We jumped back on the bullet train and enjoyed the rivulets of rain streaming down the windows as the gentle rocking lulled me to sleep.

Tomorrey we’re off to Amsterdam! There may be a hop-on hop-off canal tour planned. Any recommendations for places to go/avoid?

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Andechs Monastery

I’ve been sleeping through the nights and waking up at 7:15am (or earlier) every morning here! Even with this as the case, yesterday was rough for me and I ended up dozing on the train. Here’s a quick photo post so I can get out the door for our hop-on hop-off bus tour!
am11First official day pre-breakfast-breakfast – double espresso macchiato (followed by three more…eek), with fruit and some kind of fried cheese thingy.
am15We went to Cafe Am Marienplatz under the Rathaus-Glockenspiel for official breakfast.
AM12Weisswurst and weissbier!
am17Definitely in the top five breakfasts of my life, as unappetizing as that white sausage may look.
am14They serve the weisswurst in a pot of hot water alongside a large pretzel and mustard. It’s up to the consumer to take the sausage out, peel off the casing and consume it greedily by hand. In the countryside, many people simply suck the meat straight out of the casing. How’s that for a pretty mental image? Yay, Germany!
am16We caught the 10am clock striking which consisted of a huge crowd, lots of bells and music and rotating figurines.
AM18After wandering Marienplatz for a few hours, we found Der Pschorr and decided to grab lunchbeer.
AM20Fried goat cheese wrapped in puff pastry dough on top of arugula with balsamic reduction.
AM19Hacker-Pschorr Edelhell pulled from a wooden barrel. We were surrounded by packed tables in the biergarten which was lovely, and also overwhelmed by cigarette smoke. Not so lovely. One of the casualties I’ll need to overlook.
AM21Evenings have been spent at the hotel with free foods and Maisel’s Weisse, followed by a local Irish pub…
am9Molly Malone’s. I was warned not to go to any Irish pubs here, but I actually quite like this one. Their veggie curry with chips has been a welcome finale to two evenings.
am10Spaten Münchner Hell.
AMYesterday we took a train over to Herrsching followed by a taxi up (I’m currently wearing an ankle stabilizing boot thanks to a running injury, and was unable to hike up the 3km) to the Andechs Monastery to check it out.
am2I was a genius and brought my telephoto lens, so all my pictures had to be taken from far, far away.
am1The clock tower.
am5The inside of the church. Absolutely breathtaking.
am4Replica of the monastery.
AM22Das bier! We wanted to try a few, so between the three of us: two Doppelbock Dunkels, one Weissbier Hell and an Apfelweisse. I loved them all, but the Weissbier Hell was so wonderfully musty with the perfect banana aroma. Possibly the best Weissbier I’ve ever had. Happy sigh.
am7We walked around a bit and enjoyed the view, but were unable to find the brewery among the throngs of people. Recommendation: Don’t go there on a weekend! While the crowds were fun in the biergarten and everyone was full of songs and joy, it was a bit overwhelming.
am8We did end up walking (with me limping) down the 3km trail to get back to the train station and were rewarded with beautiful forests and charming little houses the entire way down.
COUNTRYOff to the bus tour! Happy Monday, all!

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Ich bin in München

Holy crap. Made it through two flights with zero sleep and just passed the 25.5 hours awake mark. I’m drunk on no sleep and jet lag. And I still have another 6 hours to stay awake which will involve a visit to the local Irish pub. Please forgive me for any nonsense in this post.
AMLast night I went to the Verboten Sisterhood meeting for about an hour before having to bail out to take Barleywhine to my bro and sis-in-law who are being very kind and taking care of the little guy for the next two weeks and a few days.
AM1This morning (or yesterday morning now…) we boarded a flight from Denver to Washington Dulles and had to sprint through the airport to make our connection.
AM2If you’re following me on Twitter or Facebook, you’ve been getting these updates which will have to cease for the most part until I’m back in the states thanks to pricey LTE charges. I’m updating from hotel Wi-Fi when I get the chance.
AM3I’m a weirdo and always check the tray table latch to make sure it’s not in the vein of Final Destination. Although, if the latch was loose, I have no idea what I would actually do…
AM4Surprisingly edible airplane food! Beef teriyaki with rice, salad, roll and a brownie. I ate everything but the rice. No need for filler here.
AM5I had some red wine in the hopes that it would make me tired and able to sleep for the eight hour flight that we had to enjoy after our first three hour flight. Instead I watched two movies (Kings of Summer – wonderfully written and acted and one of my new favorite feel-good movies, and The East – also wonderfully written and acted and Brit Marling is a powerhouse of a do-it-yourself actress), as well as a few episodes of New Girl which were mindless and lovely.
AM6The first stamp in my passport! Prior to today, I’ve never been anywhere overseas. Not even Hawaii. Mexico was visited when I was a kid to help build a hospital, but that’s the extent of my out-of-the-states experiences.

First order of business after brushing my teeth and changing clothes?
AM7Look up local biergartens. I found Zum Augustiner and after getting lost twice, managed to find the place right in the middle of Karlsplatz.
AM8My first sip of an actual Munich Dunkel! I might be asleep in this picture. This was exactly at our 24 hour mark.
AM9I decided to pair the dunkel with potato salad – tart vinegar and creamy potatoes rounded out with a little roastiness from the beer and a crisp ending. Pairing is exactly what was going through my head at this point. Yeah, let’s go with that.

Now I’m completely drunk on lack of sleep and need to blast some loud music and find a way to stay awake until 21:00. I’m also trying to figure out how many stone I weigh using the scale in the bathroom and how many degrees it is outside attempting to convert Celsius to Fahrenheit.

Oh yes, I almost forgot. Good morning to you all!

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Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse

This morning I enjoyed an early drive through open fields and past crystal lakes with hot air balloons lazily rising through the sky in the distance. Small droplets of rain splattered across my windshield as the flatirons of Boulder slowly came into view and the sun streaked through the cracks in the clouds, casting a warm glow over the waking earth.
Screen shot 2013-09-04 at 2.40.28 PMMy oldest friend, Michelle, and I met at Lucile’s in Boulder for french press coffee, cheesy jalapeno grits and catching up before moseying over to the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse.
amThe teahouse is tucked right next to Boulder Creek and was built between 1987-1990 in Tajikistan before being gifted from Dushanbe to Boulder to establish ties as “sister cities”.
am1The interior is open and airy with a burbling fountain in the center, intricate decor on the walls…
am2…and a beautiful ceiling, all tied together with carved wood designs and sheer fabrics on the windows to soften the glow of the sun.
am3It was a sweltering day, so we ordered the Hibiscus Coolers – Hibiscus tea, club soda, mint and citrus.
am4And since we were still pretty stuffed from our cheesy jalapeno grits from breakfast, we split the Tea Smoked Duck Bulgogi – butter lettuce wrapped around rich, smoky duck and topped with crunchy sprouts, bell pepper and sesame soba noodles.
am5We proceeded to drench these in the spicy dipping sauce before shoving our faces. With these wraps, it’s not even worth pretending to be dainty and polite. Ask for extra napkins. You will need them.
am6Dessert featured Warm Chocolate Cinnamon Cake served with avocado ice cream and a cinnamon chile caramel. The cake was light and airy and had the perfect amount of faint spice without being overwhelming and wasn’t overly sweet. The avocado ice cream was rich and heavenly and balanced the spice wonderfully. Plate demolished.

Since I need to finish packing for Europe (Aaaaaaaah!!! I can’t believe I’m actually going!!!) we both headed home with plans for future tea tastings, bee keeping workshops and plenty of other random activities that I can’t wait to embark upon. I got to enjoy another beautiful drive through the back roads and arrived home to a wonderful view.
CloudsIt’s going to be a rainy night!
Clouds 2I wish I had the words to describe how perfect everything is here. And tonight I’m off to another meeting with the Verboten Sisterhood before enjoying some quality family time featuring delicious Thai food. Utter bliss.

I’ll be blogging from Europe when I’m awake in the middle of the nights thanks to jet lag! Any recommendations for spots to visit in Munich, Amsterdam and Scotland are greatly appreciated!

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One Week In

Happy Labor Day to all! I’ve officially lived in Colorado for a week now, and holy geez, has it been busy! Here’s a quick recap of some highlights.
amMy latest obsessions – iced Bhakti Chai almond milk latte and Ambidetrous #5 dopplesticke altbier (SO GOOD!) from Left Hand Brewing. We stopped at Cranknstein (soon to be one of my regular hangouts) in Fort Collins on our way to the Tour de Fat, and in order to comply with Tour de Fat tradition, both caffeine and beer were required. Cranknstein has both, therefore, I love them.
am1We missed the parade but went to the Civic Center Park to enjoy some music and check out everyone in costume.
am2Halloween 2.0.
am3It was a rowdy bunch with plenty of hollering Chivers stumbling about and scantily clad college kids on bikes.
am4The lines were ridiculously long for beers, so we headed over to Black Bottle Brewery a little out of town for lunch and There Goes the Neighborhood rye saison – earthy, perfectly barnyard funky with a wallop of spiciness from the rye. I need to get one of these mustache glasses!
am5The rest of the week has been in the same vein. We headed to High Hops Brewery in Windsor and enjoyed a cloudy afternoon overlooking the hop farm and mountain range. Afterwards, my bro and sister-in-law kidnapped me and forced me to drink delicious homebrew, eat sushi and talk everything beer. Those two can be pushy…
am6In between all the brews, I’ve attempted to keep my diet somewhat balanced. Chopped salads with sauteed zucchini, bell pepper, carrots and black bean dressing (recipe to come).
am7Homemade indian food was also necessary. I chopped up eggplant, zucchini, onions and bell peppers, marinated them in olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a healthy dose of garam masala and curry before slowly grilling them to caramelized perfection. Slow cooker chicken tikka masala and garlic naan joined the plate.
am9Every evening that hasn’t been dominated with new friends, steak and lobster dinners (which actually occurred last night) and beer tastings have been spent on the porch enjoying the sunsets and the warm end of summer.
am10Lightning storms and downpours over the mountains are a bonus.
am11Happy Labor Day, everyone! Go be lazy – you’ve earned it!

Sincerely, the Funemployed Becki.

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Seared Sesame Ahi Tuna with Zucchini Salad

Now that I have access to a complete kitchen, I’ve had the chance to get back to one of the ultimate joys in my life – cooking! First up, I decided to recreate the delicious meal kindly prepared for me by the lovely Janelle, with a few tweaks inspired by our visit to LAB Brewing.
[gmc_recipe 5206]
AMI paired this with something I traditionally wouldn’t recommend, but it seemed necessary.
AM3Our family homebrew Yeti clone!
AM4Our pup, Barleywhine (yes, that is actually his name), seemed to think the recipe and pairing was good.

Last night I decided to immerse myself into more of the beer culture of Northern Colorado.
AM1The Verboten Sisterhood meets weekly at the brewery in Loveland.
AM2IN the brewery in Loveland, to be exact. I grabbed a pint of their Angry Banjo Kentucky Common and enjoyed the ambiance as the ladies filtered in, glasses in hand.
AM6After beer nerd chatting and displays of how to pour the perfect beer, one of the Verboten founders, Angie, brought out this devil. I had a few sips and found it necessary to tamper the heat with another snifter of Yeti clone when I got home.
AM5Also… found these on the shelves at a liquor store. No limit. Bought out the shelf. One for sipping now and three to age.

Have I mentioned that I love Colorado yet? Because I do. I really do.

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The Long Way Home

I made it to Colorado!
am12I love my new state and my new view! We took our time on the drive out east, leaving Friday morning and stopping many times along the way. I had a few favorite places to visit before I left the grand state of California.
amA second final Golden Road brew – It’s Not Always Sunny in LA black IPA.
am1Enegren Langsamweizen and a Custom Salad at Custom Melt.
am2And on my very last night in town, Derailleur and tons of mac ‘n cheese with bacon and jalapeños at Ladyface Alehouse. I spent the rest of the night hanging out with my roomies and the new pup and then prepared myself for a morning of trying to stuff my life into my car.
am3After the game of car Tetris was complete (and everything fit!!!), we headed out to grab some elixer of life. Soy chai for me – I was going to treat the drive out like vacation!
am4We stopped for gas just inside Nevada…
am5And I was very successful at losing $1.25 on the slot machines at the gas station. When in Rome…
am6Since I wanted to drag out my vacation-trip, St. George, Utah was the first stop. We checked out the Brigham Young house, grabbed a bite to eat at one of the local Thai restaurants and headed back to the hotel for Cali brews and a movie.
am7Jubilee by Island Brewing Company with the new movie Drinking Buddies on in the background!
am8And a little bit of smoky Solidarity black mild by Eagle Rock Brewery.
am9The next day we curved through the vast expanses of canyons and red rocks in Utah before coming to the Colorado state line to take the obligatory state sign picture. Someone else was already there, sadly photographer-less, so I offered to take the border pic for him.
am15Mine wasn’t quite as epic…
am10But I was pretty freaking happy to be there! Bill F***in’ Murray and I enjoyed the first step into my new home.
am11We stopped in Grand Junction (again, taking our sweet time), and went to Rockslide Brewpub for a beer before passing out. On Sunday, I finally made it all the way home and was welcomed with local brews, Thai food, family, and an unexpected jam-packed plan for Monday.

On Monday morning, I met with random dude from the Colorado sign in Boulder for some spicy iced Bhakti Chai, then we made our way to Denver and the British Bulldog to watch the Chelsea vs. Manchester United game with the Rocky Mountain Blues Chelsea fanatics.
AM16Random guy from the Colorado sign is Landon Cooper, the founder of Miles 2 Give who just completed a 3,000 mile ultra-run from coast to coast to raise funding for Sarcoma cancer research. Their normal mileage was 30-40 miles per day, plus a few 60 mile days studded throughout, and they dedicated each run to a different patient, survivor or family. Completely insane. Completely amazing. Check out the site and donate to the cause!
AM14In between loud chanting, singing and jeering the two Man U. fans that were surrounded by blue jerseys at the British Bulldog, we feasted on fish ‘n chips, Guinness and some local brews before heading over to Great Divide Brewery.
am19I’d seen this two blocks away as we drove into the city and knew I had to visit.
am18If I’d known we were to be so close, I would’ve planned ahead and gotten tickets for a brewery tour. And brought my nice camera.
am17'Small tastes of Yeti, Espresso Yeti, Wolfgang and Rumble. Landon and Bret approved.
am20I’ll be going back here sooner than later so I can begin officially documenting the wonderful extravagant number of new (to me) breweries that keep appearing in my new, wonderful state.

It’s great to be home.

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The Last Day

Today is my last full day in California! Amidst the panic of last minute details and hoping that everything I own will somehow fit into my miniscule car, I’m thrilled beyond belief and can’t wait to close (and hopefully not have to strap down) the trunk of my car and get on the road!

I spent the past week saying wonderful and sad goodbyes to all of my favorite people and places. First up were the Ladies of Ladyface and a Vertical Epic tasting.
AM208.08.08 – Belgian Strong Pale Ale.
AM309.09.09 – Belgian Strong Dark Ale.
AM410.10.10 – Belgian Strong Pale Ale.
AM511.11.11 – Belgian Strong with chilies – This is still my favorite of them all. A hint of cinnamon and a lingering spice.
AM612.12.12 – Christmas in a bottle.
AM7We then moved on to my favorite in the Eclipse Series – Elijah Craig barrel aged imperial stout. The night was absolutely amazing and full of laughter, juggling, videos of juggling which I am saving for blackmail in the future, and tons of kraut and pizza.
AM8Without a doubt, the best way to spend my final Friday in California! I love you ladies!
AM10A hello and farewell to my roommate’s new puppy, The Dude! The only thing missing is a rug that really ties the room together.
AMOne last goodbye to the ocean and a visit to all of the artists I used to know while traveling on the gypsy circuit.
AM9A final lunchbeer at Golden Road Brewing with the pops who was in town for business!

I kept the camera stowed away for the week so I could fully enjoy the last experiences with close friends, but it’ll be logging the trip home and then joining me overseas! Keep in touch through Twitter and Facebook for trip updates over the weekend!

Cheers and farewell, California!

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